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  • Thrown into Terror: Why I Only Brave the Ring Jug at Halloween


    There’s a reason I only make ring jugs at Halloween time.  Creating this giant ring jug is probably the scariest thing (to me) that I make in clay. Halloween season seems the appropriate time to make this beast.

    I start out with great plans. When I planned this ring jug, I knew I needed to make the three pieces thrown – foot, ring, and spout, with the handles added last. Planning is easy and fun.

    “I’ve done this several times before, so why haven’t I made more?” I thought.  Ha! Ha! Ha! I remember now.

    The Clay Plot Begins

    Next, I make sure I have the materials lined up that are needed.  Some of the things in my life are running a bit tight/low. For instance, time. Time is a precious commodity. Another thing that is a precious commodity to me is Highwater Clay’s Phoenix ^10 clay. It can’t be bought today since Highwater Clay, the best and nearest-to-me clay maker, was washed away in Hurricane Helene two years ago.  So I have been hoarding the remainder of my Phoenix and religiously working the few pounds of reclaim l have left. This large piece is made of nearly the last of the clay. I can make some small pieces with what I have left, but this is my last large piece. I feel sorrow and nostalgia.

    Cobbling Together the Pieces

    Thirdly, I make the pieces. In the best case scenario, I would have thrown all three pieces at one time. I did not have the time to do that. So I threw the ring first, waited a few days with it under plastic wrap, and threw the foot base, and the spout. On the day to trim and assemble I was lucky enough to get some lovely sunny, warmish weather. That meant I could stick the pieces out in the sun to stiffen up a bit. After which I trimmed them.

    Like much of my life, this is where the reality didn’t exactly meet my dreams. When making a ring jug it is critical to have the pieces at exactly the right consistency so that they would be firm enough to hold, but damp enough to accept joining to each other. Basically leather hard with some give. This is nothing unfamiliar to other potters. But with large pieces, it gets even more critical.

    Where Reality Meets the Nightmare

    It turned out that even with the sun, the pieces weren’t drying as well as I’d like. So the ring had to sit out double time. While I waited, I trimmed the base and formed it to the shape I needed to hold the ring. Eventually the ring seemed solid enough to trim. Nope, it bent when it was handled. Terror! I didn’t want to ruin this piece!

    So I carefully flipped it onto a piece of drywall board. Let me tell you, flipping a huge ring on 4’ x 4’ dry wall pieces is scarily awkward for me. It turns out that I could do that flip successfully about 5 times.   

    While waiting I carefully babied the foot piece. That is a tricky piece of work. It has to be dry enough to support the weight of the ring, but damp enough to do a major bend around the ring. So I kept the top of the foot spritzed with water, while keeping the bottom leatherhard dry.

    Eventually, the ring was dry enough that I could trim it. So that was a relief. Then I set it onto the foot. The foot bent! Scary!

    The Horror Continues


    I removed the ring, laid it aside, and using a heat gun, stiffened up the base a bit more. I was hoping that the clay of the foot would not get overly dry. If it did, it would crack and be useless. Eventually, I deemed it dry enough, and put the ring into the cradle of the foot.
    As I gently bent the clay around the ring, it seemed to hold. Yay!

    So next I created the appliqués. I put the first appliqué on the foot, and the whole ring jug leaned to the left. I was able to catch it before it totally collapsed. Terror! Terror!

    “What to do, what to do?” I panicked.  I had already connected the foot to the ring, so I could not just lay down the ring. (The foot was wider than the ring.) Carefully holding the stiff giant ring in one hand, I made my way to the shelf where I had large foam pieces and pulled a couple of the pieces down. Then I made my way to the slab roller and stacked the foam pieces onto the roller table.

    After that, I gently laid the ring part of the jug onto the foam while leaving the foot hanging off of the side. I then quickly got a stool, a couple of turntables, a box and a giant sponge. That was my support for the edge of the foot so gravity wouldn’t take the foot from the ring.

    Saving this jug

    I then did my best to straighten out the walls of the foot and used a heat gun on it. The top of the foot on the bottom side was pulling away from the ring, so I carefully flipped the whole thing over and repaired that. Eventually, the ring was finally stiff enough to stand again.

    I watched this thing like a hawk as I applied more appliquĂ©s, and eventually the spout and the handles. I took a few photos and wrapped this up in plastic. The pieces really need to get the moisture levels homogenized to prevent cracks. I’m hoping this piece is still standing when I get back to the studio.

    Will let you know!

  • The Best Gifts for Potters: Tools, Accessories, and More

    Most potters adore new tools. If you need a gift for a potter, whether it’s for Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Birthday, Christmas, or another occasion, then here’s a pretty big Gift Guide.

    This guide is for both “hand builders” and “wheel throwers”. These tools can be given to potters without knowing WHAT your potter does. You don’t need to know which Cone temperature your potter fires. You don’t need to know the specific decorative techniques your potter enjoys.

    These pottery gifts are sure to be appreciated by any potter, using any technique, and any firing method.

    You could gift these individually or combine a few together to make a nice gift box or basket. Some of the links have referrals that I might earn a few cents from a purchase, so thank you for that!

    I work in a three-person studio. Here are the tools used by both hand builders and throwers:


    $$$$ -$$$$$ Kiln, electric, gas, or wood fire
    $$$ – $$$$ Slab roller
    $$$ Wall Extruder with dies
    $$$ Shelving system
    $$$ Gleco Trap (to keep clay out of the pipes)

    $$ – $$$ Banding Wheel
    $$ Decorating Disks, both small and large.
    $$ Glaze Sprayer aka Metal Atomizer
    $$ Bead Racks – for jewelry makers
    $$ Shrink Ruler
    $$ Magazine Subscription (Pottery Making or Ceramics Monthly or New Ceramics)
    $$ High Fire Stilts – Cone 10, not any other rating (for safety’s sake since we don’t know the cone to which your potter fires their kiln).
    $$ Custom Silkscreen Stencils for logos on mugs, and more.
    $$ Wire clay cutters – get the one with nice loops, not the wood, for handles.
    $$ Hand held Extruder tool (small)
    $$ Glaze brushes

    $ Salt and Pepper Drill – hand tool, not electric.
    $ Sponges – the big car sponge and small saddle tack sponges and natural sponges.
    $ Aluminum Scraper – with teeth along the edge.
    $ Fettling Knife
    $ Stilt Mark Stone
    $ Yumi Trim Tool
    $ Scratch Wire Brush
    $ Hole Cutters
    $ Clay Bag Ties
    $ Wipe out Tool aka Clay Shaper (single piece or a set)- looks like a pencil with rubber tips.
    $ Letter stamps
    $ Bevel Tool -think a L shaped tool with wire across the the open space.

    Cool tool if your friend throws on the wheel:
    $$ Throwing Gauge

    You don’t need to know a whole lot about the process of creating that is used by your potter to get him/her/they a great pottery gift. These tools are all loved and used often in our clay studio.

  • My Greenware cracked 100% of the time. I almost quit pottery!

    Greenware clay should not crack when painting underglaze on it, but that’s what’s happening with my “new” clay, Kentucky Mudworks’ Elkhorn ^6. 

    Was it something I did?

    I had wondered if my pieces were made weak at the corners. But no, the pieces were even enough all the way around.
    And I actually watched one of the pieces crack from the outer edge.

    How bad is this greenware cracking problem?

    I had thought the cracking only happened about 25-40% of the time on the greenware clay.

    Closer viewing of bisque fired pieces show every one of them had at least hairline cracks. This is so frustrating. If I were a beginner, I’d probably give up clay!

    What I expect from my clay.


    I had picked this clay because it seemed the closest to Highwater Clays’ Redstone ^6 in features, which I loved and used reliably for years.

    Here are the features that I’m seeking:

    1. Cone 6 red clay (just for the esthetics and for best base coloring of skin tones under terra sig)
    2. Shrinkage rate around 11% to 12% (that’s just a personal preference for comfortable known proportions.)
    3. Absorption rate of 1% or less at cone 6 (I’m picky about this because my functional ware demands it for no-leaky-bottoms in functional ware.)
    4. Be useful for wheel throwing, hand building, and sculpting.  (A strong requirement because I do all three, sometimes on the same piece.)

      I thought the Elkhorn would do the trick. Yet, now I’ve learned that I also want it to
    5.  NOT dunt when I paint underglaze or terra sig onto the greenware clay.

    Kentucky Mudworks has been very kind in acknowledging my situation and has offered me the option of trying out a different clay (Sheltowee) for my hand building.  I will try it out as a possible temporary measure.

    But I have that Requirement #4 of my clay, “Be useful for everything I make.”

    I really dislike having multiple clays around, cluttering up the studio space. I want one red clay body for cone 6, and one white cone 10 clay body for my wood firing. That way my glazes can be formulated for the clay bodies I use, and I don’t accidentally high fire the wrong clay!

    A Possible Solution to Cracking Greenware

    My research tells me that Highwater Clays had added 6% Kyanite to their Redstone clay body.  This stuff supposedly gave their greenware clay the strength to stay together for terra sigging and underglazing. 

    I’ve now purchased some Kyanite and will need to do some math and experimentations to figure out how much I will need to hand wedge into each pound of the 400 lbs+/- of Elk horn clay I have on hand. And then test, test and test again. I am hoping that if I can figure out the right percentage to use, I can talk Kentucky Mudworks into making me a batch of useable clay.

    So, watch for updates on my tests here for a functional greenware clay.

    Update: July 12, 2026

    My testing of the Kyanite was successful… to a degree.
    The splitting stopped on the greenware when underglazed (Yay!!!), but the clay became a bit less bendable showing the multiple mini cracks on the outside of the clay where the clay was bent. This is a common problem in any clay that’s become a bit short.
    So now I will add a bit of extra bentonite to the recipe. I’m hoping the small amounts of .02% to .1% of bentonite I will add won’t too badly affect the absorption rate. Off to do more tests!

    On a side note, I was told by an employee of Kentucky Mudworks that none of their clay body contains Kyanite. I’m not sure how that company has NO complaints (except mine) about the clay dunting when underglaze is added to greenware. There are so many techniques that require adding colorant to the bone-dry clay.
    Does everyone who buy from KM bisque fire before underglazing?
    That can’t be right. My recent purchase of underglaze specifically says that it can be safely used on greenware.

    Anyway, I have been told that Kentucky Mudworks does make custom clay bodies in 1800 lb batches. So that is good.

    Update August 7, 2026 (Temporary solution)

    I was talking about my Clay woes with my husband. He asked, “Do you think the Highwater place in FL is making the clay since no one seems to have their recipe?”

    I said, “I doubt it, but I guess it couldn’t hurt to call.”

    The don’t make clay there. But the lady asked me how much did I want?

    I just grabbed a number out of the air (1000 lbs).

    The lady made a small sound, paused. I heard clicking on a keyboard, then she said, “Yes. We can get that to you.”

    From the way the palette arrived with bare bags missing boxes, I’m assuming I probably took every bit of Redstone they had.

  • How To Make a Mug of Unusual Shape

    An experienced and talented potter messaged me asking how to make an unusual mug that was not marked by the potter. My friend had stumbled upon this mug of unusual shape at a thrift store and included an image.

    original mug of unusual shape

    The image clued me into the construction. It seemed to me that the original design came from a happy accident. This piece seemed it was going to be a vase, but I bet the original potter cut a hole through the bottom. When the potter took off the piece from the wheel, they flipped it over to look at the bottom. While doing so, they set the piece with the vase top on the wheel. The potter liked the shape so much that they decided to salvage the vase and turn it into a mug.

    I decided to make this mug of unusual shape.

    1.25 lbs of clay on a scale.

    This mug of unusual shape started with 1.25 lbs of clay.

    I wanted to make this a 5” tall mug and was worried that with the collared neck, that I wouldn’t meet that height. But I had forgotten that I didn’t need much, if any, clay at the bottom of the thrown piece. So, this easily turned out to be 5” tall.

    Because the bottom of this “vase” will become the lip of the mug, I am careful to measure the base to between 3 to 4 inches. I really want 3.5 inch width at the mug lip. I ended up with about 3.25” by the calipers. So I widen it a teeny tiny bit more.

    Vase shape on pottery wheel.

    So now I have a shape similar to the original mug image. Right now this is a small vase on the wheel. In the interest of speed, I dried the vase with a heat shrink gun. I could have just set it aside until it became leather hard.  

    Upside down vase.

    I was kind of hoping that I had made the vase bottom thin enough to slice a hole in the bottom when I wired it off the bat to match my narrative, LOL! Obviously, that didn’t happen.
    Now that this vase is upside down, it resembles the mug shape.   

    Bottom of vase cut out.

    Next, I cut off the top (of what I’m now calling a mug).

    Here’s the edge of the mug lip cleaned up. So now I have a piece with two holes: the top of the mug and the hole in the bottom.

    cutting clay slab

    A small slab of clay was rolled out. Because this was my first time making this style of mug, I was not sure of the size I needed. So, I cut 2 different sizes of circles in the slab.

    scribing a light line in clay wall.

    This mug needed the larger slab. I gently placed the slab in the mug bottom and outlined the slab location onto the mug. Then I removed the slab from the mug. I just flipped the mug over the let the slab fall out.

    Scored clay pieces

    Then I scored and slipped under the line I just made in the mug. I also scored and slipped the outside edge of the slab.


    clay slab in place

    Afterwards, I worked the slab with scored slip down into position by using my fingers in both holes. Then I placed the mug back onto the wheel.

    blending slab to mug wall.

    Using the back end of a wooden knife, I pulled the slab edge toward the mug wall.

    Inside mug

    Next, I treated the mug as if I were throwing a mug bottom with a curved wooden rib.

    It may not have needed the extra support, but I also added a small ribbon of clay to the underside/bottom of the mug where the slab met the walls. That’s just good hand building technique.  

    mug of unusual shape: greenware.

    And voila! A mug of unusual shape.
    This piece is destined for a salt glaze wood fire kiln, so I will show the final results here when the mug is finished.

    This design is a bit fiddly, but it definitely is do-able. So have fun!

    ==Some time later==

    And here is the completed mug, direct from the flames of a wood fire kiln.

  • Taking Stock of 2025

    This is written on the day after Christmas. For the first time in many years, we have gotten the day after Christmas off. Whee! A whole extra day off to spend anyway I’d like. That has given me time to plan for a big (new to me) show that’s happening in the Spring.

    The Catawba Valley Pottery & Antiques Festival is happening on March27th (7pm – 9pm) and March 28th (9am to 5 pm).

    So I’ve muddled through the lists of my most recent show sales, and gallery sales to discover the popular items I make that might sell again.  I rarely do mugs or bowls because when I make them, they tend to be simple classic items that sit around, while people seem to be drawn to my more “exciting” pottery.
    So much like Santa, I’m making a list, hoping to find the nice things to make that will sell at the show.
    Should I make some bowls, anyways? Maybe I will.


    I’m also interested in pursuing a design series featuring Ring Jugs. More info on those later, but I’m heavily leaning into the Earth, Air, Water, Fire & Spirit theme for them.

    And then that led me down the rabbit hole of how will I display the Ring Jugs at the show? I think I’ve found the best setup to showcase them. I will need to have plinths built, though. This is another thing to add to my to-do list.

    I have a very long list of things to do to get ready for the March show. After coming off of Christmas, I need a little break, so for this week, I’m just going to relax and plan my pottery making schedule.

    Maybe I’ll play around with making berry baskets. My Aunt Doreen had told me a tale of blue berry picking with me as a little kid back in the days before cell phones. Apparently I didn’t enjoy the process as much as she did, even though according to her it was a beautiful day out in the fields next to the forest.  I was crying until a young couple stumbled over us. I stopped crying over the novelty of new people around.  They had car trouble out in the middle of Michigan’s unpopulated section, so my Aunt packed us up, blue berries and all. We took that couple into town. For some reason, it is one of her treasured memories.
    Soooo, blueberry baskets are on my list of things to make because I want to gift one to my Aunt.

    Happy New Year!

  • Are Thermocouple Flakes Ruining Your Glazed Pots?

    In my experience, the thermocouple will age. And as it ages, if it is hanging out in the air (not tubed), it will start dropping little bits of ashy metal flakes. They may be small to begin with and you might not notice right away.

    To check your thermocouple, just

    1. (IMPORTANT) Unplug your kiln

    2. Set A white shelf under the thermocouple

    3. LIGHTLY scratch over the thermocouple metal part with your fingernail. (Do not apply pressure.)

    Check to see what drops onto the shelf. If you had a pottery piece that was getting glazed, that’s the junk that ‘s going to land onto your glazed piece.

    If your thermocouple is new enough and the ash pieces are small enough, you may not have noticed yet, but sooner or later, without protection, you will likely find a ruined piece in your firing.

    My kiln uses an environvent.

    Pottery tip for preventing ashy metal flakes on your electric kiln glazed ware:

    Throw a short cylinder, vertally cut off about a third , and fire it under the thermocouple. The black ashy type substance falls into the cup bottom instead of on your wares.

    Just leave enough room for the thermocouple to work when stacking your shelves and you will keep a nice clean kiln.

    I’ve been using the same cylinder for a couple of years. See how black the bottom is!

  • On Being A Left Handed Potter

    By Cindy Douglass

    Disclosure: I am left-handed. I throw left-handed on a Brent C pottery wheel.

    I feel left-handed people should be given ADA protection. We are probably one of the last unorganized minorities in our society because we are not given a sense of common identity. We seem to function well enough, and no real American wants to be called disabled. But I think we should have ADA protection in order to have access to tools and equipment made for left-handers, without exorbitantly higher costs.

    Left-handers are often discriminated against. There’s the social discrimination (‘He’s just clumsy’), the educational discrimination (desks attached to chairs, pencil sharpeners, standardized tests, etc. are made for right handed people), and discrimination from religious institutions.

    Even our language set the left-hander apart as “different” and even “bad”. (The Latin word for left is sinister. That has morphed into the English word, sinister, which has some scary evil implications.)

    Most right handed people and many left-handers believe that being left-handed today doesn’t matter. That being left-handed it is somehow just cute, or is similar to eye color differences: interesting but not very relevant.

    Some people feel that to prevent problems of being left handed, one should just start using their right hand. Studies have shown that this forcing right-handedness tends to cause, or further promotes, troubles such as learning disorders, dyslexia, stuttering, and other speech disorders in children.

    Being left handed is a biological brain processing issue between the two hemispheres. It’s called “atypical brain asymmetry”. Being left handed is still there even if you think you were “trained out of it” years ago.

    So why do I think it is important that left-handed people have rights under ADA?

    We have more accidents than the average right-handed person, maybe because we are facing a hostile right-handed world. Whether or not we left-handed people acknowledge it, we are merely coping with physical limitations in the world.

    Studies have shown that left-handed people tend to be more fearful than right-handed people. That doesn’t surprise me. We are facing a hostile right-handed world where tools tend to hurt us, badly! Add that to an active imagination due to the atypical brain asymmetry and we have some great big fears.

    I handle serrated steak knives, electric saws, chain saws, angle grinders, weed whackers and all sorts of machinery that all turn in the direction to hurt me first! Right-handers using the same tools don’t need to have that highly honed fear because the turning action generally first moves away from their hands, feet and other extremities.

    Don’t believe me? Pick up a weed whacker and use it with your left hand, on your left side. On the right hand side, the weed whacker flings weeds out away from you. Use a weed whacker on the left side and you’ll find the weeds and rocks are being flung directly at your legs and feet. That gets painful and scary at times. A pottery wheel can be set to spin for left handed people, why can’t a weed whacker?

    The same experiment with a serrated-on-one-side steak knife will show you the danger of a simple eating utensil. The serration of the knife actually causes the knife to slip directly toward your body with left-handed pressure. People with left handers in the house really should consider buying steak knives that have serrated edges on both sides, not just one. Let’s support the manufacturers who care about the safety of left handed people!

    Studies have also shown that left-handed people tend to be angrier than right-handed people. That doesn’t surprise me, either. When we aren’t dealing with outright dangerous tools, we are dealing with tools, and attitudes, that frustrate us at the below consciousness level.

    Try picking up a manual can opener and turning the knob with your left hand. Don’t give up until you’ve opened a can and see how fast you lose your cool. Now do it with someone standing by, snickering at your “incompetence”. The jokester may think they are just being funny. A left-handed person may be conditioned to “take it” and laugh it off. But imagine you face those types of annoyances and jokes on a daily basis, several times a day, and you won’t have to wonder why there’s some fast anger in left handed people. I’m not condoning violence here, but I sure understand the cause of anger.

    Here’s a simple example. When I was younger, I bought a coffee mug for a cute saying. The only time I got to see that saying was when I washed the mug by hand. I never got to see the cuteness while using the mug because the saying was directed away from my eyes when I held it. Every time I used that mug, I felt cheated. Now that I’m older,  I ask, “Why wasn’t there a left handed mug made for me?” It really doesn’t cost anything to turn 10% of the cups* in the opposite direction during printing.   

    That’s why I custom make my mugs and yarn bowls to accommodate left handed people when I know the handedness of the person.  And I don’t charge extra for the service. To me, it is insulting to be charged extra for the same item as a right-handed person’s item – just because I am made differently than a right-handed person. In my eyes, it is the same as charging extra because a person has different skin color. And that is morally abhorrent to me.

    That’s why I wish left-handedness were covered under the ADA and the ADA design standards. The years we live are filled with constant small insults and highly probable injuries just because we are made a bit differently from the rest of the human race. 

    —
    * It has been estimated that around 10% of the population is left handed.